Stand back and give that wine some air!!
By Michael "Ty" Taiani
Oxygen (O2) is probably the most influential of all the elements
known to mankind. Both its positive and negative effects on
wine are profound, to say the least. But in this latest Take-Away,
I, an optimist, would like to speak of just the positives.
Let's start with the basics. The process of granting a wine the
ability to breathe (a.k.a. aerating, decanting, or oxygenating)
allows for several changes to occur over a period of time, which
could be anywhere from 20 minutes to a few hours. These
changes can transpire in a quality wine glass or glass decanter.
For those who are unaware of what a glass decanter is, I like to
describe it as a funky-looking beverage pitcher. Generally, the
wide base of it is designed to expose as much of the wine's surface
to the air within. Good point to mention here: an uncorked
bottle of wine does not in any manner aerate - to do so, the
wine's surface must brush up against oxygen that is in the air.
What occurs from that point is indeed molecular science. First,
the wine's molecules "grab" the oxygen molecules. Those molecules
are then released into the surrounding air to become the
(wine's) aroma, termed as its "nose." Further interactions begin
to smooth or soften the harsher aspects of the wine, such as
tannin (compounds which give wine a dry, astringent mouth
feel). So, a great analogy to use here to describe the overall
process is what happens when you take black coffee and add
cream...what a difference!! Got it?
A great story that truly emphasizes the importance of granting a
wine, mainly (young) reds, the breathing process, is one I feel
compelled to share. Last September I was cordially invited to a
"by-invitation only" wine tasting that was billed as "the tasting
of the year" with several 2005 first-growth Bordeaux available for
sampling. Although these wines were priced from a few hundred
to nearly a thousand dollars a bottle, I found them to be tighter
than the rubber bands around a golf ball! What a disappointment!
If only the wines had been aerated for a few hours prior to
the sampling, they may have performed to everyone's expectations
as the "vintage of the century."
In recent months I've done some sampling of Hudson Valley
reds from different wineries - Baco Noirs, Pinot Noirs, Merlots,
Cab Francs, and blends - which were not aerated. Overall, they
were appealingly good. Question: How much better could they
have been with aeration? Try decanting these reds at home yourself
to see if they enhance the experience.
1. Be aware of vintage dates, especially for reds. Generally consider
a red "young" if it is less than 21/2 years from its vintage date.
2. Purchase a glass decanter. No need to spend more than $20- $30 unless you want to. They also make a unique gift for anyone who regularly partakes in wine consumption.
3. Invest in highly-functional stemwear designed to enhance a wine's specific attributes.
4. And for those gotta-have-it, high-tech James Bond fans, a new
gadget to try is the Vinturi Wine Aerator which retails for
$40. Look for it at some better wine shops in the Hudson
Valley or visit vinturi.com for product details.
Michael "Ty" Taiani is owner of Wines By The Glass Enterprises,
a multi-functional firm operating in NY's Hudson Valley. He
has been in the wine and restaurant trades for 15 years, giving
both his clients and wine club members unforgettable food and
wine experiences. www.winesbytheglass.net
